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Dress Code - Posted October 23, 2015 10:21 a.m.
photo
Artwork and tips courtesy of Kim Wood/ Product photos by Bahareh Ritter

Translating Runway Makeup

Striking. Dynamic. Avant-garde. There are plenty of great adjectives to describe the makeup styles you see on fashion runways. But one you rarely see is “wearable.” What looks great on the impossibly high cheekbones and stunning face of a top model isn’t always appropriate for, say, a work-week board meeting. But with a few slight modifications and a little less theatricality, you can deconstruct this season’s top looks into something suitable for every day and every skill level.

According to makeup artist Kim Wood, translating runway makeup trends into something wearable involves breaking a certain look down to its basics – color palettes and texture, and application techniques and style. Kim analyzes each look and guides us through the process.

Rodarte Autumn/Winter 2014, by James Kaliardos

The elements:
• Color: deep oxide brown and sparkling lavender pink
• Technique: soft and blended

Inspiration: With brown eye shadow from the lash line up into the eyebrows, blush on the lower edge of the cheekbone stretching back to the ears, and a custom, glittery pink-gold-copper lipstick blend, the runway version of this look reflects the more harsh styles of the ‘80s. And glitter simply isn’t made for everyday wear – neither is the sticky gloss required to use it.

Translation: For a more wearable approach, soften this look with a rich, brown eye shadow. Smudge it on the lower lash line and upper lid up to the crease using a fluffy brush. Then, lightly highlight the center of the lid and your tear duct with a pearly pink. Use a soft contour on the hollows of your cheeks and finish with a soft pink cream blush on the apples. Simplify lips with a coat of sheer pink shimmer gloss.

Get the look:
NARS Eye shadow Duo in Dolomites $35, Sephora

NARS blush in Unlawful $30, Sephora

NARS Matte Multiple in Anguilla $39, Sephora

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2014, by Pat McGrath

The elements:
• Color: muted taupe, white and gold
• Technique: contoured, sheer and luminous

Inspiration: Exaggerated white highlights along the high cheekbones, forehead and nose give a moonlike glow. Set against this pale skin are gold highlights, pearly eyelids, and heavy contours at the inner eye near the bridge of the nose, swept upward along the temples. The other-worldly result might be more appropriate for a dramatic fairytale-inspired costume than a flattering natural look that’s perfect for warm skin tones.

Translation: Prep with a liquid mineral foundation to create a fresh glow. Dip a fluffy eye shadow brush into the darker color of the eye shadow duo to contour the inner lid. Extend over the crease and toward the outer edge of the eye. With your finger, swipe a pearl cream eye shadow onto the lid between the crease and lash line. Add your favorite mascara to keep from looking washed out, and then use a clear brow gel to sweep the eyebrows upward. Finish by pressing sheer pink cream blush into the apples of the cheeks and apply a sheer, sparkling gold lip gloss.

Get the look:
Mac Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Chrome Angel $21

Mac Mineralize Eyeshadow Duo in Love Connection $22

Mac Dazzleglass in Moth to Flame $20, Dillard’s

Peter Som Spring/Summer 2015, by Yadim

The elements:
• Color: neon orange
• Technique: precision

Inspiration: Other than a focused swathe of electric orange lipstick applied to the lower eyelid, the rest of the face is left nearly naked. The intense eye color certainly attracts attention, but unless you’re attempting to surprise your coworkers, a little de-emphasis is in order.

Translation: The bright colors make this work. But instead of applying lipstick under your eyes, stick to tradition and use it on the lips. A precise lip line is key, so use concealer to cancel out any other color. A sheer, tinted moisturizer or beauty balm works well on the skin. Brighten beneath the eyes with a concealer, and then blend a bronzer for a sun-kissed look to balance out the bold lip color. Play up eyes with a healthy dose of mascara on the top lashes.

Get the look:
Maybelline Color Sensational in Vibrant Mandarin $5.99, Target

NYX Matte Bronzer $8, Ulta

Smashbox Full Exposure Mascara $20, Sephora

Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2014, by Pat McGrath

The elements:
• Color: khaki and turquoise
• Technique: geometric

Inspiration: A coat of shiny, glittery liquid latex in khaki or turquoise combines with green mascara to give the eyes a plastic-y, geometric feel. It’s set against a warm apricot satin foundation and peachy, nude tinted lips. This dramatic runway look is definitely a head turner.

Translation: Use a metallic khaki shade on the lids in a scaled-down oval shape using a dense, rounded shading brush. Replace the colored mascara with basic black. Everything else – skin, cheeks, brows and lips – remains identical to the runway look.

Get the look:
Dior5 Couleurs in Pied de poule $60

Dior Addict Lipstick in Mirage $33, Dillard’s

Anna Sui Autumn/Winter 2014, by Pat McGrath

The elements:
• Color: deep sapphire or emerald, burgundy red
• Technique: smoky eyes, two-toned lips

Inspiration: The smoky, dark-rimmed eyes evoke flappers from the Roaring Twenties, complete with intense, precisely shaded red lipstick for a doll-like pout. A matte finish liquid foundation is blended through the brows to lighten them without bleaching. The runway version of this look is too heavy for an appropriate every day look.

Translation: The most wearable looks accentuate only one facial feature at a time. Either go with the smoky eyes or highlight your ruby red lips, but don’t try to do both. Gorgeous crimson lips are hot this winter, so follow the same lip routine from the runway – but downplay the eyes. Rim them instead with the smudged sapphire eye shadow, followed by a coat of black mascara.

Get the look:
Cover Girl Flamed Out shadow pencil in Indigo $5.99

Cover Girl Lip Perfection in Hot Passion $5.99, Target

Cover Girl Flamed Out shadow pot in Sapphire Flare $4.99, Ulta

by Jason Boyett

Jason has written more than a dozen books and is the host and creator of “Hey Amarillo”, a local interview podcast. Visit heyamarillo.com and jasonboyett.com.
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